Thursday, July 31, 2008
Today sister and I ventured north on a focused mission: for me to experience liver. In the wake of my utter and embarrassing failure to procure gluten-free liver in Seattle, I researched today's venue with great care. My diligence was beautifully rewarded.
The Wild Sage Bistro resides in a building across the street from Spokane's old steamplant. The restaurant's sign and facade are rather subdued in the early evening sun; few would guess that behind the tall plate glass windows scrumptious meals are being served and enjoyed. On street parking isn't free until 7pm and the lot directly adjacent to the restaurant isn't free, so if you're an early evening diner arm yourself with a handful of quarters before venturing out.
Rich with dark woods and intriguing textures, the Wild Sage Bistro offers a set of comfortable wheat-coloured chairs in its entry for diners who need to wait for a table. Intriguing pieces of art dot the walls, but the one feature that drew my eyes most often was the extensive wooden wine rack at the back of the dining area. Even to this tea-totaling girl, the rack was lovely to behold.
Though my bony legs prefer the plush treatment of thick chair cushions, the upright-backed cushionless chairs at the bistro are sturdy and comfortable enough for the span of a single evening meal. (And there is something clean and lovely about a simple well-designed wooden chair. Though my silly bum might disagree, I think it would detract from the beauty of the dining area if the chairs sported cushions.) The dark glossy wooden tables are set with handsome pale wooden (or perhaps bamboo) chargers cradling the white napkin and appetizer plate.
My sister noted that Harry Connick Jr was playing in the background; I had not noticed until she mentioned it. The music was at a perfect volume. You could listen happily if you paid attention, but it wasn't so loud that it would disrupt conversation or distract from the food.
The menu, on brown-rice-coloured parchment and bound in textured copper, is not extensive, but it is excellent. Offering a mixture of the slightly unusual and the traditional, its options managed to please my timid-diner sister just as much as endlessly-adventuresome me.
The service was stellar from the start. I am a fumbling novice at the rules of fine dining, but the lady who helped us gracefully and with a winning smile managed my moments of naivete. She is also the first wait person I have encountered since learning of my gluten intolerance over two years ago who came back from a kitchen to advise us that a dining choice might not be safe. (If my sister were at a celiac level of gluten intolerance, it wouldn't have been 100% safe for her to risk the maltodextrin in her dressing because that ingredient is occasionally derived from wheat outside of the US. In the US, it's typically gluten-free and not an ingredient I try to avoid.) This delightful lady deserves a brilliant gold star for making a special effort to ensure our meals were safe. This is rare service indeed!
This is probably a good time to note that The Wild Sage Bistro is happy to accommodate diners' special dietary needs. I would strongly recommend this restaurant to anyone on a gluten-free diet.
The service was the first star of the evening, now on to the second:
This food is delicious.
While the coffee was more espresso-esque then I typically prefer, the food was nothing but pleasure after pleasure. My salad, a crisp array of burgundy leaves with a glistening drizzle of pale green dressing waited enticingly beside a delectable nest of parmesan reggiano flakes. The flavor was as gorgeous as the arrangement.
My entree was just as carefully presented. Petite green and yellow pattypan squash shared peripheral space with slim purple carrots while a tender platform of onions and greens propped up the two precious slices of liver. Each vegetable was cooked to its optimal texture. While I typically leave the onions in my meals behind to lounge (enjoying the flavor, but avoiding the sugars in that veg) this dish was so delicious, I couldn't help but eat every last one. I found the pattypan squash especially charming.
The liver? That so yearned for organ meat that has haunted my dreams and mocked my laughable inability to track it down? Ahh, yes it was worth the wait. I cannot imagine this meat being more winningly prepared--tender, rich, hot and flavorful--than it was this evening. I now know that liver is truly a sweet cut of meat. This was only a small surprise since I'd already learned from Fitday that it is one of the rare meats that contains carbs. I also know the mammal liver frequently houses glycogen, so I expected a slight sugary hint. It was still quite a bit sweeter than my tongue was expecting, but pleasant regardless. I could taste the wealth of vitamins in the meat and enjoy them within the context of healthful fat and protein. Yes, I can certainly understand why many consider this a superfood. Is it for me? Well, no. It's a bit too sweet for my palate. Nonetheless, I happily recognize its merits and give the chef full marks. If ever I have liver again, it will be here. (Though I have my eye on another dish at the moment!)
My sister, woman of grace and wisdom, ordered steak. I have never been a fan of this food and tend to avoid it zealously, but she persuaded me to accept a bite from her plate. Pink within and brown at the edges, it glistened at me and I stabbed it mercilessly with my fork.
Did I mention I've never met a steak I like?
Tonight, benevolent universe, I made the acquaintance of a steak I loved. Ohhhh, the pleasure, while brief, was so rich and tender and bursting with excellent flavor. For the first time I could understand why my family members order steak. Mmmm, heavenly.
To summarize: the decor stimulates contemplation and inspires soothing thought, the music is jazzy and just right, the menu options should satisfy both the timid and the curious, the dishes are presented beautifully, the service is stellar and the food is simply delectable.
I will most definitely return to this treasure of a restaurant. And next time I will be sure to bring along my steak-loving Dad and brother-in-law. It is a crime against culinary bliss that they missed tonight's treat.
So Truly Pleased,
~L
Revisited on August 8, 2008:
We just had to go back.
This time I made note that both the chargers and the flooring appear to be bamboo. The menus appeared to be in a textured vinyl, however. Not sure. The gauzy drapes and bunched tapestry curtains gave the windows around us a nice stylish feel. I still really love the decor and atmosphere in this place.
The restaurant had a special menu for the seven year old at our table. She enjoyed her food immensely with the exception of the eggplant. My mother and sister enjoyed their salmon while my Dad relished his steak. The lucky gluten tolerate among us declared the popovers delectable. My envy nearly broke me.
The Friday night atmosphere was much noisier than the midweek early evening meal my sister and I enjoyed. I could hear the music, but it was mostly obscured by the conversations around us. That's okay.
So what did I choose? Mandy's steak was so divine I had to try it for myself. And this time I had a simple starter salad with bleu cheese. Once again the greens were thick, fresh, crisp and curly and wonderful. Although the salad was a bit smaller than a typical side salad, it was still satisfying. The steak was tender and lovely.
So the question is, will I go back again soon now that I've sampled from the menu those items that most intrigued me? I love their food and service and style. I will definitely return. The cost, however, will probably mean it will be several months, maybe even half a year, before I venture back. Don't misunderstand: the food is worth its price. I'm just a girl on a budget. And with my sense of culinary adventure, every dining dollar is precious.
When next I go, however, I will be sure that it is mid-week and early in the evening. It was ever so much easier that way.
Still Satisfied,
~L
